Elevate Your Mezcal Experience: A Guide to Premium Agave Spirits
So, you think you know mezcal?
If your mezcal experience consists of fruity cocktails and shots that burn going down, you need to seriously up your mezcal game. You’ve been drinking the wrong stuff – or, at least, the not particularly good stuff. Drinking good mezcal is like drinking good scotch – you need to SLOW DOWN and use your senses. Premium mezcal is ambrosial – with tantalizing aromas, layers of delicate flavors and deeper elements that awaken the palate. Every sensation – from the first inhalation to the last finish – is a treat.
If the mezcal you’ve had in the past tasted more like lighter fluid, it’s not your fault. Premium mezcal is not always easy to find. Some of the more common mezcal brands are mediocre at best. Learning to identify good mezcal is not complicated but does require some basic knowledge, courage and commitment.
The first realization when you drink premium mezcal is that it doesn’t burn your nose or throat. Premium mezcal is made by hand in small quantities and often consumed locally before it’s ever bottled for export. Much of the mezcal exported to the U.S. is harsh, industrial, and burns like hell. We want you to erase any bad mezcal memories you have and start this mezcal journey with an open mind. If you follow our three-step plan to identify and drink only Premium Mezcal, you will be amazed by how rich and delicious it tastes. Premium Mezcal will literally elevate your spirits and Warning: you may become obsessed.
But before you go out and buy expensive bottles of mezcal, remember that price is not always an indicator of quality. Let’s spend a few minutes learning to differentiate mezcals before you make an investment.
To have an exciting and enlightened mezcal journey, follow this three-step plan.
#2: Inhale the aromas with a proper glass
You wouldn’t drink fine wine out of a plastic cup, so don’t drink fine mezcal out of one either. You’ll need a glass, preferably one that lets you gently swirl the spirit so it releases its aromas and you can dip your nose and inhale. Aroma is one of the great pleasures of premium mezcal – so don’t skip this step. A small brandy snifter is the perfect vessel. Using your sense of smell is a key part of the mezcal experience – and a necessary precursor to tasting.
#3: Taste the difference between Mediocre and Exceptional Mezcal and Find your Favorites.
The Distillation process alone is a lesson in chemistry. Distillation produces three distinct components – Tips, Hearts and Tails. The Maestro separates, tastes and then mixes these components to yield the desired taste profile and balance. Acidity levels are monitored and calibrated. Malic acid is generally sweet and desirable, but too much tastes foul. Tips are a necessary component, but too much tastes like mud. Maestros decide how much of each to include – or throw away. They separate these components, distill them a second time, and again decide how much of each to keep or discard. Finally, they carefully blend the desired amounts of each distillate into a complete mezcal.
Making Exceptinal Mezcal is a time-consuming and delicate process requiring careful attention and masterful orchestration. Quality can be enhanced (or diminished) every step of the way. Mezcal-making is an ancient art that cannot be rushed by technology or industrial techniques. Only Maestros can produce magic – and create the desired complexity and balance in the finished product. Machines are not capable.
To achieve a lush and delicious mezcal, a Maestro must use all their senses and intuitively know how to orchestrate the many variables into a cohesive and beautiful whole. This requires, above all, patience and a commitment to excellence.
In a premium mezcal you will not taste mud and you will not burn your throat. Those characteristics are in mediocre mezcal because that agave was cooked with green stems still attached, the agave was not washed prior to cooking, and generally the process was conducted to maximize quantity, not quality, of mezcal. Dozens of shortcuts can be taken to make mezcal faster and produce more product. But each of those shortcuts undermines the integrity of the mezcal and diminishes your enjoyment. Like anything in life, the good stuff is worth the wait.
Now that you know how good mezcal should not taste, you can search for and taste single-source mezcals and compare them to one another. For instance, you could try two or three different Tepeztate mezcals -- sip each one slowly to identify the characteristics they have in common, and also how they differ. You could do the same for Espadin, Mexicano, Tobala and other agave varieties. This is how you’ll hone in on what makes a Tepeztate or a Mexicano different from an Espadin. As you explore single-source mezcals, you’ll discover what you prefer … and why. Even if you find you prefer Tepeztate, we encourage you to dig deeper and find brands that are crafted by a Mezcal Maestro because just as the vintner’s art is expressed in their wines, the Maestro’s art is expressed in their mezcal. Each Maestro/a has their own personality and technique which is revealed in their mezcals. As you refine your mezcal experience by exploring different brands of Tepeztate, Mexicano or Espadin mezcal, you will become a true cabron - someone who knows bad from good and always chooses well.
Mezcal is a Gift from the Gods, literally.
Legend has it that mezcal was a gift from the Gods to the Aztecs. Carlos Villegas Montoya, of El Cabron mezcal from Mitla, Mexico, explains the legend.
“Mayahuel, the Aztec goddess of the maguey or agave was imprisoned by her grandmother, Tzitzimitl, a monstrous creature who guarded her in the darkness. The wind god Ehecatl, captivated by Mayahuel's beauty, devised a daring rescue. He swept her down to earth in a whirlwind, where love transformed them both into the maguey plant. Their spiky leaves represented protection from Tzitzimitl's wrath, while the heart of the plant (the pina) held the precious nectar.”
That “precious nectar” of the agave plant is called pulque. It is a magical, mysterious liquid. Pulque begins to ferment the moment the pina (heart of the agave plant) is split open and its liquid is exposed to air. Pulque is best consumed within 24 hours because it ferments naturally and quickly, changing dramatically in just a few hours to become thicker and more prickly. In and around Oaxaca, you can find “pulquerias” that serve pulque, poured fresh every day. It tastes a bit like unflavored kombucha but is rich in minerals and nutrients. We recommend drinking pulque during the day as agaves are harvested in the morning and pulque tastes fresh and light when consumed closer to harvest.
Official Categories of Mezcal v. Tequila
Mezcal categories - Mezcal is regulated by an entirely different system than the one that regulates Tequila. The official title of Tequila can only be used on product that 1) is distilled from one type of agave - Blue Weber, 2) is bottled in the designated region around Jalisco and, 3) contains a minimum of 51% agave distillate. NOTE: This means that many tequilas are made with up to 49% water, sugar and chemicals. This is why you may have had bad tequila experiences in the past.
In contrast to Tequila, Mezcal is officially classified by how it is made – not where or with what. The three categories are: Modern, Ancestral and Artisanal. Modern mezcal can be made with industrial equipment such as stainless steel tanks. Traditional mezcal – Ancestral and Artisanal – cannot use steel tanks or other industrial methods. Ancestral mezcal must be cooked in underground pits, milled by hand or stone, fermented in wood vats and distilled in wood-fired clay-pot stills. Ancestral mezcal is traditionally milled by horses or donkeys and sometimes fermented in animal skins. El Cabron Tequila does not use animals or animal labor in its process. El Cabron Tequila is certified Artisanal mezcal, which uses traditional methods to achieve excellence - pit ovens to roast, wood vats to ferment and copper to distill. For more information on mezcal categories, read here.
Now, go forth, and Enjoy your Enlightened Agave Experience!
Now that you know how to navigate the landscape of mezcal, you have already raised your spirits game. You have a roadmap to finding the best mezcals available. As you try different brands, made from different agaves, keep notes on what you taste and what you prefer. Don’t believe the hype – brands are not better just because they’re more expensive. You have the tools. Trust yourself and trust your senses. Go forth, be confidant and ENJOY THE JOURNEY!